Oppie Oppenheimer

From Arizona I went to the Tampa Bay area to visit an old Miami friend, Oppie. He’s called Oppie ‘cause his last name is Oppenheimer. About 8 years ago we met in Miami Beach, but he’s originally from Tampa. And happily for me, he starred in a few of my short films and comedy sketches. He’s a natural actor, and with a good sense of humor when called upon to use it, which is often. He moved back to the Tampa Bay area to be with his father who has cancer.

Hokie Town

So I was staying with Oppie and his girlfriend, Thu, she’s from New Jersey but moved to Miami years ago. Like many she came on vacation and decided to stay. They’ve been together for a while and moved to Tampa with Oppie. Tampa, like Miami, is green and tropical with lots of water, and as Oppie says, “Very hokie.” “What’s hokie?” I asked. He explained it’s the beachy decorations, sometimes tacky, that you see in many Florida bars and restaurants. He continued, “You know like the Jimmy Buffet thing.” I’ve always had an affinity for that vibe. It’s one of the reasons I moved to Florida in the first place.

Spanish Conquistadores

We decided to stick to our tradition and do some camping, and we chose an island just south of the of the metropolitan area on the big peninsula. It’s called Fort DeSoto Park. It was named after the Spanish Explorer, Hernando de Soto, who played an important role in Pizarro’s conquest of the Inca Empire in Peru, but he’s best known for leading the first Spanish and European expedition deep into the territory of the modern-day United States (through Florida, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, and most likely Arkansas). He is the first European documented as having crossed the Mississippi River. De Soto died in 1542 on the banks of the Mississippi River, rumored to be Louisiana or Arkansas, nobody’s for sure.

Camping

We pitched tent on the water in the mangroves. The first night was a beer-drinkin’ hum-dinger. The raccoons moved in and staked out our campground as we unpacked. When we turned our backs they darted in and stole off with a pack of hotdog buns. We were shocked and crestfallen because we lost our buns and in a very inglorious way. We were ashamed to have been fooled so easily. Then I thought: for a raccoon, a bag of buns can be heavy. “Let’s go get him!” Thu and I took off and barged in on the neighbor’s campsite with flashlights waving and chased that little bugger through the bush and trees. We cornered him and he dropped the bag. He had chewed into the bag and sullied one bun. But we got our buns back!

Egmont Key

The next morning we woke up early to catch a ferry to go to a neighboring island called Egmont Key, no one lives there. Well, one guy: a grumpy Park Ranger who has his perfect job. As you can imagine we went to bed late and woke too early and reluctantly drove to the pick up point..on the beach. Our gas tanks were almost empty on little sleep. We waited at a picnic table near the beach and under shade. There were some German tourists, over weight and approaching obese, waiting there too.  Oppie said, “Don’t the europeans call us obese?” On the boat ride to the island Oppie said, “On the way back I think we’re going to be a lot more fun.” He said this because we had shrooms. “Comin’ back on the boat like,’Hey Captain!” We walked across the island. It was virgin tropical vegetation on white sand. In 1898 a military base was built there when a war broke out with Spain, but the war only lasted 3 months. The Spanish never attacked and all that’s survived are a couple of big gun forts. We passed them by like they were ruins of an ancient civilization and struck camp on a beach with palm tree shade.

Shrooms

We cracked some beers and lay out the mushrooms. 20 minutes after eating them it started, which felt cool, but then I got a stomach ache.  Oppie went for a walk and Thu sat at water’s edge. I was able to step out of being me and see how negative I have been about life, and under that palm tree, I decided to be rational instead, and be happy ‘cause life is fabulous. I know that consciously but I don’t behave that way. Sometimes, I worry about money and lament over things that I have no control over. Like I was fretting over how much money I spent the day before and really thinking hard about it and not feeling good about it which lead to an unhappy face and body posture. But come on, the money is already spent. Move on. I came out from under the tree and met with Oppie by the waves lapping the beach. He said he took a slippery #2 in the ocean. “I was out there up to my waist, just letting it flow when I saw the german lady. Our eyes met and I could tell she knew what I was doing. I felt shame.” We both laughed at this. I had done my business in the trees but the danger that someone could see me was always haunting me. I felt shame.

The Return

On the way back we explored the old Fort. Fort Dade. It was eery and we walked the walls of this deserted underground bunker. On the boat back we were the funnest people. I was talkative and everybody was watching us. I yelled,”Hey Oppie! There’s a bathroom,” I pointed at the boat’s bathroom,” just in case you want to go #2!” He was so embarrassed but he laughed. Later he said the German lady looked him in the eyes we I yelled that.

We got back to campsite beat like beatniks after an all-nighter in San Francisco, but we soldiered on and did it up right around the campfire. I got wasted. Thu and Oppie couldn’t find me and eventually I turned up in the car passed out. I woke and continued partying.

Conclusion

I love Tampa and can see myself living there.

Back in California

I went back to my hometown for about 2 weeks staying at my Dad’s house where I grew up. It’s next to the American River and next to a park, so everyday I’d take the golden retriever, Bob, for a walk to the river. Also, I’d spend the days meditating, smoking, surfing the web, and writing e-mails.

I visited childhood friends. We drank at their homes or went out to bars and restaurants, even to a Kings’ game. But often I just wanted to get away and be alone but that was a pipe-dream.

NBA Game

I probably drank and smoked more than I should have. It started to take a toll on my body. One night I went to an NBA game with some old friends and as we walked to the arena a few blocks away Jake said, “Hey let’s go into that bar and have a drink.” I said, “I’m not drinking today.” They were surprised because I usually drink and these guys are my drinking buddies. It took 25 seconds to convince me.

My Dad

It was wonderful to be with my Dad. We got along better than normal. He never asked me what I was going to do for a job or what my plans were for the future. Hell, I was 45 and I think he came to accept me as I am. Also, we spend a lot of time together, visiting Grandma, and hitting some golf balls.

My Mom

Then I went to Tucson to visit my mother and my aunt Mimi. My Mom was living in a senior assisted-living center because her health had deteriorated tremendously. She couldn’t walk without assistance. She couldn’t even walk with a walker. I had to help her take each step. I took her out to a few places. To a restaurant, to Supercuts, to the movies. I’d take her in a wheelchair, help her into the passenger seat very slowly and then do the same in reverse when we got to her destination. I was spoon feeding my Momma in a sushi restaurant. This was all very strange and new. Also, she had difficulty speaking.

A Star Is Born

We went to see a movie “A Star is Born”. I showed her the trailer the night before and it seemed like she wanted to see it. The trailer was one of the best I’d seen, and I’ve made trailers. We entered the theater with a couple of cokes and buttered popcorn. The screen was gigantic and the sound system was like a slick sonic boom, but it may have been a little overwhelming for her. After about 20 minutes she wanted to leave, so we left. Out in the hallway she said that she wanted to go back in. I was pissed but didn’t show it. Perhaps she was just saying this because she felt bad that I was missing the show. But I could tell that she wasn’t comfortable being in there with all that loud noise and the big ass screen. I didn’t want her to bear that just to please me. Also, I knew that she would start fidgeting again once we were in there. So we drove around Tucson for awhile before heading back to her home.

Internet Binging

One form of re-entry culture shock. I’ve binged hard on the internet: Youtube, news, sports news, and Facebook. It was hard to get anything else done because I’ve been glued to the computer screen. More informatin, more stimuli…it never ends.

My one week in Tucson, Arizona has changed me more than perhaps my two years in Madagascar. I began to see things differently. I began to realize that I will someday be old like her. Life is more fragile than previous thought. Life is going to end. The place where she lives is a place where old people go to die.

Conclusion

My experience in Madagascar was like a 2 year mushroom trip,.

More Filming

On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday we filmed a concert. The first night had bands from all over Madrid. They were all good. One was called “Puto Chino Maricon” Which means Fucking Chinese Faggot. On camera, I had to translate his name into English which would be “Fucking Chinese Faggot” I told Agustin that this would be problematic for an American audience to accept. I didn’t want to do it. But the reason given by the artist for choosing his name was that he wanted to take ownership of the words that were used against him all his life. I agreed and we went forward.

To Alicante

So I would be a total dumbass if I didn’t visit my old friends, including an old flame, in Alicante on the southeastern coast of Spain. I called her up. We conversed. I visited.

I spent two days in Alicante, on the Mediterranean Sea. It’s touristy but very Spanishy, too. I met Sonia 20 years ago here. When we originally met, in a bar in the old barrio under a medieval castle that’s lit up at night, I was staying with a group of English blokes. There was a bar downstairs. So that night, my and the English blokes were out bar hopping. I left them and approached her in the bar. We were both drinking heineken, which was my opening line. I thought I was going to marry her.

20 Years Later

This was the 4th time I’d returned, so I saw young adults who were babies the last time I was there. I saw the effects of age on my friends’ faces. And to top it off, when I arrived, Sonia’s town’s annual 4 day party for San Francisco de Asis was kicking off! What luck! Thanks Paco. Or is it destiny? It was so impressive that I suspected that this small wasn’t so small. People dressed up in disguises, parades, day drinking, live music, and relentless dancing. We started eating and drinking in the day, took a nap then ate a meal then drank and danced ’til 5 am. After two days I was ready to go back to Madrid. My body was spent. Who are these people?!

Enter Pavan

I found out that an American I met years ago(20) in Alicante was now living in Alicante. The backstory:  The 2nd time I went back I was riding with Sonia and friends through the streets of the city when I saw this guy walking down the street with a big backpack and a map. And for some reason, and I don’t normally do this, I called out to this guy in English, something like, “Hey, do you need some help?” He did, and he ended up hanging out with us and he met all my friends. And I heard that since then he came back to Spain a few times.

Present Day

Well, it turns out that he moved to Alicante about a year ago, with his wife and daughter, and opened a business. So I passed by his business, which is in the old barrio near the castle. The conversation covered many topics, and he said while talking about his present situation, “If you didn’t offer to help me that day, we wouldn’t be here now.” Mind blown. I was honored to have had such an influence. I had chills up my spine. He offered to let me stay at his house but I chose to go back to Madrid that night. I wanted to take him up on his offer. But he was going to attend the party in El Altet. No way. I needed a break. I can’t do another night like that.

Public Transportation, Contrasted

I took a bus back to Madrid. Damn comfortable and spacious. It had wifi and a charge port for my phone. I was entertained for the whole 5 hours. In fact, I didn’t want the trip to end. This contrasted with the castigation and abuse I took while traveling by bus in Madagascar. Where they pack the buses full with people until you’re like sweaty sardines. You can’t even reach into your pocket to get something. You’re smushed.

The Chess Trap

Back in Agustin’s apartment I was playing on-line chess. I love chess. Maybe too much. It’s like an addiction that I fight. Agustin walked by and said, “You’re in Madrid. And you’re playing Chess?! You could be doing that in the United States!” Initially I was offended and crestfallen. I thought about arguing but I knew it was fruitless. I closed my laptop went to my room and thought: What could I do now that wont be a waste of time?Or at least seen as a waste of time by my future self? I thought about writing, or reading a book. But fuck, I could do that back in the States. I thought about going out, but it was Monday and I wasn’t in the mood to talk to strangers. Possibly drunk strangers. I decided to walk the streets. Once on the street I chose to put in my earpods. I simply wanted to be in the present. I walked slow. Slower than I ever do.

Back To Reality

The big day arrived on October 20th. Homebound. When I left Spain, I wasn’t happy to return to the States. I wanted to stay in Spain. But I had to visit my family and take care of my health. Living in Madagascar was a wear on me mentally and physically. I lost 20 lbs, broke a couple of teeth, got intestinal worms, got a strange eye infection that lasted a year and a half, got diarrhea a bunch of times, and developed a back problem, and got gray hair. Lots. I needed to be checked out by a dentist and a doctor before going overseas again.

American Delights

It had been 2 years and 3 months since I set foot in the United States. I’d been looking forward to this day for a long time. I wanted Starbucks and Taco Bell and Kentucky Fried Chicken. I flew from Madrid to Los Angeles then to Sacramento. Honestly nothing felt strange like what they call “reverse culture shock.” But the familiarity sure was comforting. I had Starbucks and Hardee’s in the Airport. Not too shabby.

The first night I went to my Dad’s house. The house I grew up in. It’s was great to be back home.  I stayed here and got my bearings.

Conclusion

Blood is thicker than booze.

To Spain

I hopped a flight to Madrid, the capital of Spain, with high hopes and I wasn’t let down. I went there for the love of the country but also to visit an old friend, Agustin Pisonero, who lives in southern Madrid.

The Backstory

I met him in 1998 in a small town in Colombia called San Agustin, in the lush mountains of the mighty Andes mountains. I was traveling thru South America with a buddy who I’d met in the military named Richard, a wild cat himself. In a hole-in-the-wall bar on a dirt road in that Colombian town we met this hippy, dreadlocked Spaniard. He was riding a bike from the southern tip of Argentina all the way to Alaska. I gave him my contact information and said, ”If you need a place to stay when you pass through California, call me.” He did.

The San Diego Area late 1990’s

He stayed with me and Richard a few months in our apartment in Imperial Beach, the last beach community before hitting the Mexican border. A block from the beach so you’d hear waves crashing 24 hrs a day.  He was so lively and intriguing that we didn’t want him to leave. For example, he taught us about an ancient Celtic tradition called a Quemada. Before the Celts went into battle, they drank a hot alcoholic concoction. It included fruit, vodka, coffee, and rubbing alcohol…..all mixed in a flaming cauldron. We did the ceremony on the beach. Wasted as hell, but luckily no battle.

Filming SomosSur TV

So the first day I was there, he suggested we do a video together. In this video I was the reporter talking about the his neighborhood and showing the viewers the emblematic spots of the area.  It was difficult, though. I had to speak in front of the camera with a flare, and in Spanish! It pushed me to my limit of Spanishspeakability. I was sweating bullets to get it right, but I loved it. I love making videos and I rarely collaborate with others, so it was a special time.

My Reaction to the Barrio

So I went to visit him in southern Madrid, in a barrio called Villaverde. I immediately fell in love with the place. Stores, bars, and restaurants all over the place, and the neighborhood is laid out like a labyrinth.

There’s lots of immigrants here, and I’m a foreigner too, so it’s a strange feeling sometimes. BTW, I wasn’t aware of anything like reverse culture shock in spite of living 2 years in Madagascar. Odd. I feel very comfortable here, and have no desire to go back to the States, but I have to go back. My Momma’s not doing good and I got to see what I can do to help out.

Filming Concerts

We filmed a 3 day concert in a huge auditorium. I was again the reporter and interviewer. On the day of filming I was nervous and feeling unconfident as hell, but I just went at it with gusto ‘cause I’ve done this before many times, albeit in English. I know what to do. There’s very few people as qualified as me to do this job, no matter how nervous I feel. We filmed and filmed and took beer breaks at a bar down the street ‘cause the line for the concert beer was a mile long.

Filming Challenges

I would approach people with the microphone with Agustin working the camera. Unexpected things happened. Funny things were said. A lot of people said no and we had to coax them and leave and find new people. Then eventually he’d have the camera running and I would just walk up to people and ask them questions. We threw in English which surprised people and made it more fun. But in the moment it wasn’t fun. It was scary. I was well out of my comfort zone. But yet, I got on stage with a female lead singer and took off my shirt. And then I was flirting with the lead singer of Axolotes Mexicanos, and her boyfriend/guitarist came out and saw us, tried to fight me, and then kissed me. A scene from Hollywood comedy, all caught on tape.

Subtitles

We were putting subtitles to a video. I had to write in English what I had said in Spanish. I got to a point that I didn’t understand something I had said. I asked Agustin and he was able to translate it. Sometimes I don’t even understand myself. Mind blown.

Conclusion

Keep in touch with friends, no matter how far away they live.

Tamatave

After a wild week in Tana I took a bus down to Tamatave on the East Coast. It’s a big tropical town. I was there once before when the eye of a cyclone passed overhead. (see post: My Cyclone Vacation To St. Marie) This time I met up with Mimi and Jessica, then Sawyer and Kyle arrived the next day. Also, a handful of Volunteers were in Tamatave acting as translators for Operation Smile, a yearly event where surgeons from around the world do free surgery to fix cleft pallets for kids and teenagers. Heroes. Much Respect.

I think I drank too much beer and I didn’t get enough sleep. Which reminds me, I read the biography of Jim Morrison on the bus down to Tamatave. He drank a lot, too. Every sunset we were on the beach, drinking and eating munchie food, like clams, then we went to a restaurant in town. My plan when I decided to go to Tamatave was to stay in a cheap motel and edit videos and write. I even had the seedy motel picked out. Oh well.

Back to Antananarivo

After 4 days of good timing with my good-timing Volunteer friends, I boarded a bus back to Antananarivo. I was a little hung over and cranky on the ride up there. Interestingly, on the taxi ride from the bus station to my hotel I saw Sam Feibel. He’s from Connecticut. He’s a damn good photographer and a fun guy to be around. Yo, I’m a good photographer myself, but I don’t capture the photos that he does. He knows how and when to photograph people. I’m too shy. Also, I saw him in Tamatave because he was working Operation Smile.  We ended up staying at the same place, The Bamboo Lounge Hostel, located in the center of town. That part of town is sketchy. A few Volunteers had been robbed there, so the Peace Corps made it off-limits.

Lost Passport News

Also, while back in town I finally made a police report about my lost passport. That went smooth as silk. Then I went to the US Embassy to see if my passport was ready, if not, at least I could rattle their cage and let them know that my flight to Spain was going to leave soon.

I got to the consular section of the Embassy feeling pessimistic. I asked the lady at the counter and she said that it had not come in. My body went limp. She saw the despair in my eyes, and said,“Let me check if it has come in this morning.” So I sat down and waited, thinking what I was going to say if she came back with bad news. Suddenly, someone behind the counter said,”They got it!” I leaped up with happiness and did a touchdown celebration. A gentleman waiting near me got excited, too. I told him about the lost passport. He was about 55 or 60, good-looking, tan, and in shape. A James Bond type and well dressed like Bond, too. Turns out he had lived in Miami for two years and his son was born there.

A Lunch Date

I said good bye and departed with a skip in my step and boarded a bus to downtown. I was on my way for a lunch date with a Malagasy girl. We met through Facebook. She was very attractive, spoke English very well, and from what I could tell from Facebook, she’s hard working and successful. We had lunch at a swanky café. I ordered a carpaccio salad, which was to die for. But damn! She was such an attractive woman that it was a shame that I met her only right before leaving the country.

The Last Night

So this night I went out with my friends Kamaka, Nate, and Nate’s girlfriend to Kim Star, a Korean restaurant near Kamaka’s apartment. The food was delicious: kimchee and spicy chicken, and like always, the beer went well with the kimchee. I drank that night just because I was eating kimchee. Nate and I even did a karaoke duet. The next day, my last day, I took a taxi to the airport and I was in a surly mood as usual. I thought I’d be more nostalgic and marvel-eyed at departing a country after 2 years. I don’t know if I’m correct or not, but I suddenly felt very unconnected to humanity. It’s like this 2 year experience has turned me Autistic.

Conclusion

Love and be friendly because you may check out early like Jim Morrison.

Tracey 

My Stage mate Tracey, from Connecticut, passed through my region so I met up with her in Ranomafana, an hour east from my town. It’s a jungle town on the slopes of the Falaise de L’Angavo, the mountain range running north to south parallel the East Coast. We stayed with Jay, a Volunteer from just north of Jacksonville, Florida. In Ranomafana next to a Garden of Eden, he’s got a sweet house. He’s a 3rd year Volunteer. Which means that after he finished his two years of service he signed up for a 3rd year. We had such a good time. We swam in the hot springs. One night in his living room I spilled the beans that Tracey and I had a fling during our initial training. I spilled the beans because I thought he already knew. He didn’t. It was hilarious.

Visit to Alakamisy Ambohimaha

After that, she came to my town for two days. She’s the first girl I had stay with me. BTW, Jesus had passed through my town on his way to hike Peak Boby in Andringitra National Park, so he had borrowed one of my two sleeping bags, so there wasn’t enough covers and sleeping bags for us to sleep separately so we had to share a bed. I felt some attraction to her. But there was plenty of room on the bed and we both slept comfortably with no hanky panky. But sometimes it wasn’t easy and mother nature was psychologically nudging me.

Manakara Escursion 

After she left, I went to the coast of Manakara to attend Bekah’s going away party. 5 of us shared a room and hung out for a couple of days. The beach was dreamy. At night we went to Sharon’s for dinner. We had a doozy of a time. Next day, me, Jay, and Katie missed the bus but that allowed us to have breakfast with the Sudest Volunteers. We went to the Big Snack, a staple breakfast place with Volunteers who visit Manakara. We got to the bus station and upon learning of our situation, our bus company got us another bus leaving later. While waiting, hungover, dehydrated, I sauntered into a hotely, and ordered coffee and lounged in their shady little shack. I informed the others and they immediately took shelter from the sun, too. It was a rough a dusty bus station.

Return to Fianarantsoa

We rode a crowded bus back to Fianar. That night back I had a date with an ex-girlfriend. I wanted to say good bye to her. She’s Malagasy and lives in both Fianarantsoa and Ambositra. We haven’t seen each other for a while but, there was a strong possibility that we’d end up in a hotel room together, which is our M.O. We had a pleasant dinner and walked down the dark city streets. There were college age kids out on the streets having a good time. We were chilly and I had my arm around her. In the end I decided not to ask her back to my room, even though our good-bye by the taxi got heated. We agreed to see each other in Tana, the capital, before I depart Madagascar. Who knows what will happen?

The Film Show 

During my 2 years here I’ve made many videos, many about my town, Alakamisy Ambohimaha, and the school I teach at, so I organized a show of 17 videos at the Commune, the town community center. The 17 movies feature people from my town. And I even had a video about the teacher’s strike that I participated in. I paid to rent out the Commune for 3 hours and had my projector set up and the whole 9. I even got some friends to lend their big ass speakers to the cause. It was a success and the people were entertained. Afterwards, I took the guys who helped me out for beers and food. I bought the beer and snacks. After we left the bar, I pulled a big beer out of my backpack and sent them off. I was happy.

Last Few Days

During my last few days at site while cleaning my room I looked out the window and saw a woman playing tag with the neighbor kids. But she’s walking funny and with a cane. She has a condition that effects the nervous system, I’m sure. But she was so attractive. I said hello to her from my open shudders. Her smiling was so strong. I saw her again on my last day in town. She was so cute and smiling. When she walked it was the most awkward walk, but it was enchanting.

Drinkin with the Boyz

I’ve been drinking more with the guys, mostly fellow teachers. I do feel a little guilt for day drinking, but also fun ’cause it’s almost over and like I deserve to goof a little. Plus, I’m speaking more Malagasy than I ever have. And bonding more. We always order some meat to pick at while drinking. I like to put salt and Gasy hot sauce on it.

Last days in Fianarantsoa

So my last week here I went into Fianar for my send-off soiree. Mine was chill, just like I wanted. We went to a seedy bar that I’ve always wanted to go to. We had a great time. Katie and Jay were there and I’m going to miss them. Even Doz was there and he’s not from the region. He lives on the east coast of Madagascar, the tropical part. My good Stage-mate, a film collaborator, Kamaka, was there too, and Jel was there. She’s from the Stage before mine and now lives in Toliara as a 3rd year extension Volunteer.

Now, I’m starting feel a little sad and nostalgic. Everywhere I look I know I’ll see for the last time. Everything is about to change forever. I’ll never be back here and that makes me a little sad. So I’m just charishing everything.

Last night Alakamisy Ambohimaha

My last night here I was printing a picture for a friend, then had a few beers then picked up my laundry then came home to my friends, neighbors, and fellow teachers. We had a little pow-wow and then I started giving them stuff. Some really valuable stuff like a bed, camera, sweet blue-tooth speaker, tables, chairs, guitar, extension cords, tools, dishes. Man, they were happy.  I went on a walk to get away from all of them. I was not in a good mood. I know, for what, right? But that’s how I get. I sauntered around, got mad at people. I walked into my favorite hotely (restaurant) where someone laughed at me when I spoke Malagasy and I told him, “You laugh. You always laugh.” in Malagasy.  I told the owner of the establishment that I was wasn’t feeling good and that I was leaving. I left. I walked into a little min mart. I was looking to buy wood. Someone said my name, “Hey Viggo!” I replied,”You’re not my friend.” Don’t really know why. Guess ‘cause I wanted to be alone. Alone in my thoughts. They said that they didn’t have wood. Then all of a sudden a couple of guys show up with wood in their arms. A shit load of wood. More than I was looking for. I was floored. I couldn’t believe it. My mood shifted 180 degrees. From being hell bent on the destruction of humanity to seeing the light of hope of humanity’s future. Then walking down the dark highway with wood in my arms I walked passed a big rig and the driver was getting in and he yelled at me in Malagasy, “laughing!” It was that dude. I kept walking. Then about 200 yards down he passes me, and yells the same thing. I was glad to get a reaction. Then one of my ex-neighbors walks up next to me, she’s a girl that studies at the university in Fianarantsoa. She said she came back to see me before I left. Awww. I was touched. But as I walked with a bunch of firewood in my arms, I thought this might alter my plans of pondering and drinking. We walked back to our house where our apartments reside. We share the upper floor.

The Last Day

I said good bye to all my neighbors, they said good bye. Suzanne cried. I was moved. She was the only one who cried. I hugged her twice. Hugged others twice, too. As I walked away I felt good. People watched me leave. I wasn’t sad to leave. Ironically, I wish I was sad to leave, but It was a really tough 2 years living there. Too many of the towns folk made me feel really uncomfortable. I was glad to leave. But those 2 years were special, without a doubt. In ways I can’t foresee right now. I looked back once.

The Last Night in Fianar

My last night in Fianar. I went to Charly’s Bar close to the Meva where we volunteers have spent many a night. In front there’s a guy who sells meat on a stick. The place is open 24 hours. I went there for one last hurrah. Just me and Fianar. I drank a beer and looked out at the scene and just thought about the last two years. I feel bad I wasn’t able to connect with any Malagasy in an intimate level.

The Last Week in the Capital

I was in the capital, Antananarivo, for about a week after we had the “Bell Ringing Ceremony.” Bell Ringing is when we officially end our service. We ring the bell…..we are done. After we rang the bell and did the final paperwork, people from my Stage began departing for the United States or to other countries to vacation before going home.

I stayed here for one week. One night my friends and I went out to a few clubs. I brought my passport with me because in that neighborhood the police stop tourists to ask to see their papers. If you don’t have your papers they threaten to take you to jail, unless you pay them. It’s happened to me twice. Well, we had a real hum-dinger, and I got wasted. Why? It was the last night for Bekah, Juan, Hilary, and Tracey. We went to many bars and clubs.  The next morning as I said goodbye to them, I checked my jacket pocket and the passport wasn’t there. Good Lord! After checking everywhere I realized it was time to start the process to get a new one.

The US Embassy

I went to the embassy with all the appropriate paperwork including photograph and credit card. The lady at the desk asked me how old the photo was. It was at least 2 years old, but I told her it was a year old. She said that she couldn’t accept it because it needs to be no older than 6 months. Damn! I didn’t want to go across town to get another and have to come back! So immediately I blurted out,”Oh it’s 4 months old.” She knew I was lying but at least I gave her some way for her to accept with plausible deniability.  Later if someone asked her why she accepted an old photo she could say that I said it was less than 6 months. Her ass is covered. In the end she talked with her supervisor and they accepted it. Desperate times call lying.

Conclusion

Party hard a little before departing somewhere you won’t return to in a long time.

Jesus Hits Alakamisy

My friend and fellow Volunteer, Jesus from Southern California, visited me at my site. When a fellow Volunteer visits your site, it’s a special occasion and you want to be the best host. After his arrival, I had to go to the Commune of the town to meet up with Tahina, a fellow teacher, to accompany me to ask permission to a city official to show my films of Alakamisy in the town’s “ballroom.” We sat in a office and they said sure, no problem. So it’s going down on Saturday! Aug 25th a week before I departed my town for good. I just had to pay 10,000 Ariary for the electricity.

Mr. Vonjy, my fellow English Teacher

Mr. Vonjy, the another English teacher at my school, was supposed to accompany me, but he had to go to Fianarantsoa, yet, upon leaving the Commune, Tahina said,”Let’s go see Vonjy.” I replied, “He’s in Fianarantsoa.” He laughed “No, he’s in his office.” I just went along. We went to an epicerie, a little market, like a Malagasy version of 7-11, and in a small room in the back, only seen through shady curtains, was Mr. Vonjy, lookin’ like he’s sippin on a beer. These under-the-radar backrooms exist here in Madagascar so men can drink without being seen.

Gotta Go

So I’m back there drinking with Vonjy and Tahina having a grand ol’ time but my friend, Jesus, is waiting at my apartment for me. He teaches English up north near Tana. So I take my leave and buy some food for me and Jesus: sandwiches, fried breaded cabbage, sweet wafers, fried breaded banana, a coke for him and a beer for me. I get back, I’m late but I brought goodies. A sergeant once told me in the military, “Hey, if you’re going to be late, bring the donuts!”

The Circumcision

The next day Jesus and I walk to Vonjy’s house because his son had a Circumcision that morning and there’s a little party for the family. I brought some Fanta and some chips for the peeps at the party. I didn’t bring beer ‘cause I drank enough the day before. We sat down in a room, a circle of men. We talked a lot. I was speaking Malagasy better than I ever have. In the course of the conversation a bottle of vodka was put on the table. They offered me some, but I declined. I said,”Yesterday I drank a lot so today I’m taking a break from drinking.” But I wanted to partake. The talk continued and was lively. I beer was placed in front of me, but I ignored it. Then it was opened and pushed towards me. I said frankly, that nope, I’m not drinking. They accepted my actions. We left after eating and I was so happy that I was able to turn it down.

Conclusion

Stay in the backroom and drink.

Isalo National Park

I just went to Isalo National park with Stephanie from my Stage. She’s returning to the States a month early to start Grad school in Hawaii. We took a 9 hour bus ride to the small dusty and touristy town, Ranohira, next to Isalo. All Peace Corps Volunteers rave about this place. Steph was hell bent on going but didn’t want to go alone. Initially I didn’t want to go, but along with Hillary she convinced me. And due to the teachers’ strike I’ve had more free time, so what the hell? Plus everyone raves about this place.

Steph 

Confessional: I’ve had a thing for Steph but unfortunately it’s not reciprocal, so we’re only friends. But being an optimist…who knows? The spice of life. The park was deserty with picturesque oasis’s interspersed throughout. We took hiked in with a guide and of course took selphies but the swimming was the coup de grace. Normally, Steph jumps in, then me, reluctantly. She’s adventurous like that. At night we partied and danced with some French tourists. It was so much fun. I got really wasted andflirty wit h a Malagasy woman. A week later she rang me up. I forgot I gave her my telephone number. Yeah, a little awkward.

Bus Incident

I was riding on a brusse with my fellow teachers back from Ranomafana to Alakamisy Ambohimaha. I was in the back row. All was wonderful then the back hatchback opened up a little bit, and exhaust enter like pirates raiding a boat.

The Reason 

First I asked the driver if he could stop and fix the problem, but no response. Then I threw a plastic cup, which everyone thought was funny. I continue to plead and argued my case, but everyone in the bus just laughed. I was frustrated and perplexed by their laughter. Don’t they want to breath clean air, too? So, I fished into my backpack and found a 700 page novel and tossed it quickly at the chauffeur. It passed by an old lady’s head who came with us. Missed her by inches, thank god! Well, it got the attention of the whole bus. They stopped laughing. The bus stopped, they quickly closed the back door and we stopped breathing fumes. Problem solved.

Conclusion

Don’t throw books at bus drivers, unless you’re breathing exhaust fumes and they won’t do anything about it. And always remember the spice of life.

Food

Went to Fianarantsoa to attend a region 4th of July soirée. We cooked and drank and talked. Very chill and fun. The food was delicious. Julian and Zhora cooked a wonderful mixed of the best food I’ve seen from any volunteer here in my 2 years.

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Conflict In a Bar

World Cup in Full Swing. Late at night while everyone was tucked away in the Fianar Meva, I sauntered down the hill to watch the ending to a game Between Russia and Croatia. It’s a run down little establishment that is grimy but good. A lot of us volunteers go there because it’s cheap. It was full of people enjoying the game. I ordered my beers and cigarettes and sat by myself. Eventually a group of Malagasy got my attention and I chatted with a few of them. It started on a good note, then one of them was rude. I was calmly mean to him. I realized that after the fact and regretted it. I cut the conversation short ‘cause I knew where it was goin’. And I didn’t want to go there, so I said my goodbyes. At one point he put his fist out for a fist pump. I didn’t oblige. Instead I just touched it with my outstretched middle finger. I’m kinda of an asshole, and so was he.

Romance

There’s a girl that works the front desk at a hotel I normally stay at. She speaks a little English. So we talk. I asked her out to lunch but she said no. The next day she texted me so I passed through the hotel again. I was staying at the Meva. She was also selling oranges while watching the front desk. I bought some oranges. They’re really small. That night she texted asking if I was married. I said no. Then she asked who was the girl in my picture on Facebook. I asked her which picture, because there’s many pictures with me and girls. She hasn’t responded.

Strike and Protest

I participated in a protest.  The teachers across the country aren’t working because they want a raise. We haven’t taught in about a month and a half. So today the teachers of our town had a march down main street. I marched along with my whistle. Technically I’m not supposed to take part in politics. Perhaps, I was inspired by Paul Theroux. He’s a writer who served in the Peace Corps in the 60’s in Africa. He helped a candidate who later got kicked out of the country and the Peace Corps kicked him out. He went on to become a rich and famous writer. Anyways, back to the Protest. People came out of their homes to watch us and cheer us on. We had a few guys with microphones and a few others carrying the speakers. People were astonished to see a foreigner taking part, which caused them to laugh they normally do in many situations, some when laughter doesn’t occur, like when someone gets bit by a dog. This happened to a friend of mine, Jessica, who serves in a small town up north a few hours.

Films

I’m enjoying the break from teaching because I have to complete my films: The Malaria Bikeride Video, The Beehives of Malalia, and the Malaria Theater Project. I submitted the Malaria Bikeride and The Theater Project to the Peace Corps so they’ll can, if they want, post it on their page. I’ve yet to hear anything back. It’s possible they they don’t like them. Lately, it’s been cold as hell. It’s even colder when the homes don’t have heating.

Trip to The Coast

Some Stage mates and I went to Ranomafana and Manakara. Ranomafana is in the jungle on the slopes of the mountains leading from the highlands down to the ocean. Manakara as I’ve wrote before, is on the coast. Anyways, Ranamafana has a river that runs through it, and it has hot water pools. There’s showers that constantly pour out hot water. On a chilly day it feels almost orgasmic to stand under it. To wit, all of us were in the pool along with a bunch of Malagasy folks. Kamaka left the pool, and said,“Hey guys, I’m going to walk back to the hotel.” Yet, on the way out he had to pass under the shower. Fifteen minutes later he was still lounging under the cascade of hot water. He yelled to us, “I can’t leave. It feels so good!”

Dodging Bullets

On 2nd day there, our last day, I walked away from the hotel to have a smoke in an out-of-the-way place. I smoked discreetly, finished and started back. A 100yards into the walk I crossed paths with the Volunteer who lives here and who tried to get me kicked out of the Peace Corps. What weird luck! I dodged perhaps another bullet.

Secluded Beach Bungalows

That night we stayed at some beach bungalows about 10km south of Manakara. It’s secluded. At first, I was like, “What? Why don’t we stay in Manakara. Everything’s there. The hotel has wifi!” But I learned that the secludedness of it was an experience like no other, like that show “Lost.” The first night was chill. We got in late because we had dinner at Sharon’s in downtown Manakara, the same restaurant where my region mate, Francis, got pick-pocketed a year ago, and where we tracked down the thieves and recovered all that was stolen.

World Cup Game

Anyways, the first night at the little resort Ahmad, Kamaka and I were watching the World Cup in the hotel restaurant which was right next to the beach. Two Malagasy women were there and were excited about the game and invited us to drinks. Let me inform you that the night before I had a bender and missed the action-packed ending of the Argentina game. Oh, I was there, my body watched it and cheered, but I can’t remember it. Also, I missed the festivities of that night, June 26th, which is Madagascar’s Independence day. The night of June 25th was fuckin’ rockin’, though! We danced in the streets and there was live music, like a movie depicting Carnaval in a tropical country. So back to the beach restaurant, one of the girls offered us liquor. I took it reluctantly and only drank that one ‘cause I needed a day off. Just this day, though. Yet, the moment was perfect for another fun-filled bender. But I needed to take this night off, only this night! I finished the shot of liquor as we watched the game. Then at the end of the game we took our leave. As I got up I saw that she had poured me another. Damn temptation. I was a good by, though.

Conclusion

You can’t dwell on the past. Learn and move on.