My Last Month at Site

Tracey 

Me and Tracey in Alak
Me and Tracey walking the mean streets of Alakamisy.

 

My Stage mate Tracey, from Connecticut, passed through my region so I met up with her in Ranomafana, an hour east from my town. It’s a jungle town on the slopes of the Falaise de L’Angavo, the mountain range running north to south parallel the East Coast. We stayed with Jay, a Volunteer from just north of Jacksonville, Florida. In Ranomafana next to a Garden of Eden, he’s got a sweet house. He’s a 3rd year Volunteer. Which means that after he finished his two years of service he signed up for a 3rd year. We had such a good time. We swam in the hot springs. One night in his living room I spilled the beans that Tracey and I had a fling during our initial training. I spilled the beans because I thought he already knew. He didn’t. It was hilarious.

Visit to Alakamisy Ambohimaha

After that, she came to my town for two days. She’s the first girl I had stay with me. BTW, Jesus had passed through my town on his way to hike Peak Boby in Andringitra National Park, so he had borrowed one of my two sleeping bags, so there wasn’t enough covers and sleeping bags for us to sleep separately so we had to share a bed. I felt some attraction to her. But there was plenty of room on the bed and we both slept comfortably with no hanky panky. But sometimes it wasn’t easy and mother nature was psychologically nudging me.

Manakara Escursion 

After she left, I went to the coast of Manakara to attend Bekah’s going away party. 5 of us shared a room and hung out for a couple of days. The beach was dreamy. At night we went to Sharon’s for dinner. We had a doozy of a time. Next day, me, Jay, and Katie missed the bus but that allowed us to have breakfast with the Sudest Volunteers. We went to the Big Snack, a staple breakfast place with Volunteers who visit Manakara. We got to the bus station and upon learning of our situation, our bus company got us another bus leaving later. While waiting, hungover, dehydrated, I sauntered into a hotely, and ordered coffee and lounged in their shady little shack. I informed the others and they immediately took shelter from the sun, too. It was a rough a dusty bus station.

Manakara Sunset
Manakara Sunset

Return to Fianarantsoa

We rode a crowded bus back to Fianar. That night back I had a date with an ex-girlfriend. I wanted to say good bye to her. She’s Malagasy and lives in both Fianarantsoa and Ambositra. We haven’t seen each other for a while but, there was a strong possibility that we’d end up in a hotel room together, which is our M.O. We had a pleasant dinner and walked down the dark city streets. There were college age kids out on the streets having a good time. We were chilly and I had my arm around her. In the end I decided not to ask her back to my room, even though our good-bye by the taxi got heated. We agreed to see each other in Tana, the capital, before I depart Madagascar. Who knows what will happen?

 

The Film Show 

During my 2 years here I’ve made many videos, many about my town, Alakamisy Ambohimaha, and the school I teach at, so I organized a show of 17 videos at the Commune, the town community center. The 17 movies feature people from my town. And I even had a video about the teacher’s strike that I participated in. I paid to rent out the Commune for 3 hours and had my projector set up and the whole 9. I even got some friends to lend their big ass speakers to the cause. It was a success and the people were entertained. Afterwards, I took the guys who helped me out for beers and food. I bought the beer and snacks. After we left the bar, I pulled a big beer out of my backpack and sent them off. I was happy.

Last Few Days

During my last few days at site while cleaning my room I looked out the window and saw a woman playing tag with the neighbor kids. But she’s walking funny and with a cane. She has a condition that effects the nervous system, I’m sure. But she was so attractive. I said hello to her from my open shudders. Her smiling was so strong. I saw her again on my last day in town. She was so cute and smiling. When she walked it was the most awkward walk, but it was enchanting.

Drinkin with the Boyz

I’ve been drinking more with the guys, mostly fellow teachers. I do feel a little guilt for day drinking, but also fun ’cause it’s almost over and like I deserve to goof a little. Plus, I’m speaking more Malagasy than I ever have. And bonding more. We always order some meat to pick at while drinking. I like to put salt and Gasy hot sauce on it.

Drinking With The Boys
Wald, Me, Vonjy, and Tahina at Tahina’s house. 

Last days in Fianarantsoa

So my last week here I went into Fianar for my send-off soiree. Mine was chill, just like I wanted. We went to a seedy bar that I’ve always wanted to go to. We had a great time. Katie and Jay were there and I’m going to miss them. Even Doz was there and he’s not from the region. He lives on the east coast of Madagascar, the tropical part. My good Stage-mate, a film collaborator, Kamaka, was there too, and Jel was there. She’s from the Stage before mine and now lives in Toliara as a 3rd year extension Volunteer.

Now, I’m starting feel a little sad and nostalgic. Everywhere I look I know I’ll see for the last time. Everything is about to change forever. I’ll never be back here and that makes me a little sad. So I’m just charishing everything.

Last night Alakamisy Ambohimaha

My last night here I was printing a picture for a friend, then had a few beers then picked up my laundry then came home to my friends, neighbors, and fellow teachers. We had a little pow-wow and then I started giving them stuff. Some really valuable stuff like a bed, camera, sweet blue-tooth speaker, tables, chairs, guitar, extension cords, tools, dishes. Man, they were happy.  I went on a walk to get away from all of them. I was not in a good mood. I know, for what, right? But that’s how I get. I sauntered around, got mad at people. I walked into my favorite hotely (restaurant) where someone laughed at me when I spoke Malagasy and I told him, “You laugh. You always laugh.” in Malagasy.  I told the owner of the establishment that I was wasn’t feeling good and that I was leaving. I left. I walked into a little min mart. I was looking to buy wood. Someone said my name, “Hey Viggo!” I replied,”You’re not my friend.” Don’t really know why. Guess ‘cause I wanted to be alone. Alone in my thoughts. They said that they didn’t have wood. Then all of a sudden a couple of guys show up with wood in their arms. A shit load of wood. More than I was looking for. I was floored. I couldn’t believe it. My mood shifted 180 degrees. From being hell bent on the destruction of humanity to seeing the light of hope of humanity’s future. Then walking down the dark highway with wood in my arms I walked passed a big rig and the driver was getting in and he yelled at me in Malagasy, “laughing!” It was that dude. I kept walking. Then about 200 yards down he passes me, and yells the same thing. I was glad to get a reaction. Then one of my ex-neighbors walks up next to me, she’s a girl that studies at the university in Fianarantsoa. She said she came back to see me before I left. Awww. I was touched. But as I walked with a bunch of firewood in my arms, I thought this might alter my plans of pondering and drinking. We walked back to our house where our apartments reside. We share the upper floor.

The Last Day

Alakamisy Last Day
My neighbors and I on the last day.

 

I said good bye to all my neighbors, they said good bye. Suzanne cried. I was moved. She was the only one who cried. I hugged her twice. Hugged others twice, too. As I walked away I felt good. People watched me leave. I wasn’t sad to leave. Ironically, I wish I was sad to leave, but It was a really tough 2 years living there. Too many of the towns folk made me feel really uncomfortable. I was glad to leave. But those 2 years were special, without a doubt. In ways I can’t foresee right now. I looked back once.

The Last Night in Fianar

Fianar Brothel
Charly’s Bar in a deserted corner.

My last night in Fianar. I went to Charly’s Bar close to the Meva where we volunteers have spent many a night. In front there’s a guy who sells meat on a stick. The place is open 24 hours. I went there for one last hurrah. Just me and Fianar. I drank a beer and looked out at the scene and just thought about the last two years. I feel bad I wasn’t able to connect with any Malagasy in an intimate level.

The Last Week in the Capital

I was in the capital, Antananarivo, for about a week after we had the “Bell Ringing Ceremony.” Bell Ringing is when we officially end our service. We ring the bell…..we are done. After we rang the bell and did the final paperwork, people from my Stage began departing for the United States or to other countries to vacation before going home.

Bell Ringing Collapse._
Bell Ringing as me like…..

I stayed here for one week. One night my friends and I went out to a few clubs. I brought my passport with me because in that neighborhood the police stop tourists to ask to see their papers. If you don’t have your papers they threaten to take you to jail, unless you pay them. It’s happened to me twice. Well, we had a real hum-dinger, and I got wasted. Why? It was the last night for Bekah, Juan, Hilary, and Tracey. We went to many bars and clubs.  The next morning as I said goodbye to them, I checked my jacket pocket and the passport wasn’t there. Good Lord! After checking everywhere I realized it was time to start the process to get a new one.

Dancing at Cuba
The Night I Lost My Passport

The US Embassy

I went to the embassy with all the appropriate paperwork including photograph and credit card. The lady at the desk asked me how old the photo was. It was at least 2 years old, but I told her it was a year old. She said that she couldn’t accept it because it needs to be no older than 6 months. Damn! I didn’t want to go across town to get another and have to come back! So immediately I blurted out,”Oh it’s 4 months old.” She knew I was lying but at least I gave her some way for her to accept with plausible deniability.  Later if someone asked her why she accepted an old photo she could say that I said it was less than 6 months. Her ass is covered. In the end she talked with her supervisor and they accepted it. Desperate times call lying.

Conclusion

Party hard a little before departing somewhere you won’t return to in a long time.

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