Up a Malagasy River with Friends

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Avenue of Baobobs near Morondava.

I’m writing you from a canoe in Western Madagascar a few hours east of the west coast. We’re no longer in the highlands so it’s warm, a change for us Highland Volunteers. The sun is blasting. I just finished reading Cloud Atlas on my iPhone, so I’m inspired to write. I’m on this trip with my Stage-mates: Claire from Connecticut, Tracey from New York, Diana from Minnesota, Kamaka from Hawaii, Emma from Illinois, Hillary from Alaska, Juan from Kansas, Stephanie from Orlando, and Taylor from Texas. Taylor has been in country a year longer than us so she’s about to leave country and travel India. We’ve been on the water for hours and are still euphoric. I decided to not buy beer for the 2 days of canoeing but now I’m hankering for a beer, specially since Claire and Diana have popped their brewskis while floating down the river.

Canoe Claire for Blog
Claire, my muse.

We’re talking about our bucket lists and what our plans are after the Peace Corps. My list: Travel to Indonesia, get married, and buy a sailboat. Diana said she’d join me on my boat and sail around the world with me. I said come aboard. Claire wants a home with a western facing porch that she can have a glass of wine on and write in her journal.

At night we camped on a sandy edge of the river. The stars were brilliant. Temperature, perfect. We had our nightly pow-wow, eating and drinking on a mat on the sand. Juan was in his douchy but entertaining state. The guides cooked us mashed potatoes in the shape of hearts. We were captivated by them. When there was only one left I said, “Does anyone want to split this one?” Then Juan says, “I split your mom. Ha ha.” We kinda giggled. Claire says, “Juan, I’m surprised everyone doesn’t hate you.” And we all bust up laughing.

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2nd Campsite.

 

Day 2 started early with a visit to a waterfall. On the way there I walked the trail with Taylor, Claire, and Juan. As I carried my towel a thought crossed my mind, “Oh, no way I’m going in. It’s too cold. I need a coffee. A hot one…like stat!” We got there and I saw Kamaka and Steph and their hair was wet, which, means I’m going in. Damn. Everyone besides me got in quickly. I took pics. Eventually It was refreshing like a cold beer on a hot day. No, not really, more like leaving the dentist.

Waterfall Morondava Trip
Peep Kamaka and Stephanie up in the cave.

Six hours later we visited a small town on the river. The kids were excited to see us. The adults looked on amused; this wasn’t their first rodeo. I said fuck it and bought a beer. One of our girls was wearing a bikini in the market and everyone was getting a kick out of it. I don’t pay any attention to her but watch the crowd. Looking for any Charlatans and shady characters. I’ve traveled a lot.

 

We shoved off and my beer pops. I used my house key to open it. Everything went up a notch. We listened to the song, “I’m on a boat,” singing along unable to dance in the dug-outs. I told ‘em, “We can use this song in the Morondava video.” At the next stop I had them dance in the canoes as I filmed it.

The next night was another late nighter. It helped that a bunch of us are night-owls. We were known as the Insomniac Crew during Pre-Service Training. While others were sleeping we’d hang out in the “Vanilla Room”, the only room with a fireplace that we fed all night long and made a pillow lounge on the floor talking and watching movies for hours.

Next day we were transported via rickety carts pulled by bulls. It was as fun as it was uncomfortable. Then started driving north in SUV’s later refilling my beer and boarding a ferry Down the river we glide. As dusk fell we stopped in a small dirt roadside town for lunch. Our guide said we had to sleep there tonight because there’s bandits out in the country. Ok, no prob. We really drink it up and talk it up at this mangy motel. We have a rap contest between Kamaka and Diana. I remember Stephanie and Juan watching the spectacle like they were a painting. Someone said, “Hey maybe we’ll skinny dip on this trip.” Juan responds, “Oh, I can’t go skinny dipping. But I can watch.”

Tsingy Suspension Bridge

 

Days later after hiking through the caves of weird stone formations in Tsingy National Park, which was cool, we finally got to Morondava, a real beachy town. It’s fighting out of its weight class. First night we went to a Rasta Place called the Oasis. I smelled herb and live music. Tracey, Juan, and Steph got on the stage and did some dancing, and singing too.  Me and Claire just wandered around discovering a rad beach restaurant. You can eat on the beach! We brought everyone back.

We spent the whole day there, swimming, taking pics, drinking, and eating with feet in the sand, and I even recorded a few interviews that’ll go in the video. Went back to the hotel after sunset. Went to bed early and woke at 3:45 to catch the first bus out town rumba Antsirabe. Game over.

Morondava Sunset
Morondava

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